Tarragon: French vs Russian — Which to Grow in Australia

Only French tarragon has the true anise flavour — and it doesn't set seed, so you must buy plants or divide roots. Learn why and how to grow the real thing. Australian gardeners have unique climate conditions. This guide covers everything from planting timing in your specific zone through to harvest, with troubleshooting for the most common problems.

Understanding the Difference: French vs Russian Tarragon

Tarragon is a perennial herb that comes in two main varieties, and understanding the differences between them is crucial for Australian gardeners. French tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus var. sativa) is the culinary favourite, prised by chefs and home cooks alike for its distinctive, delicate anise flavour. Russian tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus var. inodora), also called Siberian tarragon, is a hardier plant but lacks the refined taste that makes French tarragon so valuable in the kitchen.

The key distinction lies not just in flavour, but in how these plants reproduce. French tarragon is sterile and never produces viable seeds. This means it cannot be grown from seed packets, a limitation that surprises many beginning gardeners. Instead, French tarragon must be propagated through root division or purchased as established plants from nurseries. Russian tarragon, by contrast, produces seeds readily and grows more vigorously, making it easier for beginners to propagate — but at the cost of culinary quality.

Why French Tarragon is Superior for Cooking

French tarragon contains compounds that create its signature subtle anise or liquorice-like flavour, making it an essential ingredient in classic French cuisine and contemporary cooking. This herb is a key component of fines herbes, that delicate blend of fresh herbs used in French cooking. It pairs beautifully with chicken, fish, eggs, and creamy sauces.

Russian tarragon, whilst easier to grow, has a much weaker flavour profile and lacks the complexity that French tarragon offers. Some gardeners describe Russian tarragon as being almost flavourless by comparison. If you're growing tarragon specifically for culinary purposes, French tarragon is the only sensible choice.

Culinary Uses for French Tarragon

• Béarnaise and hollandaise sauces
• Tarragon vinegar for dressings and pickling
• Chicken tarragon — a classic French dish
• Fish preparations and seafood dishes
• Herb butters and compound butters
• Flavouring for mustards and condiments
• Fresh in salads for a subtle liquorice note
• Herbal teas and infusions

Growing Tarragon in Australia: Climate and Zone Considerations

Australia's diverse climate zones present both opportunities and challenges for growing tarragon. Understanding which zone you're in will help you decide whether to grow tarragon as a perennial or an annual, and which variety suits your conditions best.

Tarragon Growing by Australian State

New South Wales and Australian Capital Territory: Most of NSW, particularly regions around Sydney, Canberra, and the tablelands, falls into climate zones suitable for year-round tarragon cultivation. Coastal areas and inland regions up to 1000 metres elevation work well. Plant in early spring (September) or autumn (March to April) for best results.

Victoria: Victoria's cooler climate is excellent for French tarragon. Plant in spring (September to October) and expect strong growth through spring and summer. Winter dormancy is natural and healthy. Areas around Melbourne, Ballarat, and the Dandenong Ranges all support excellent tarragon growth.

Queensland: Subtropical and tropical Queensland requires careful planning. In Brisbane and the Gold Coast, tarragon struggles with summer humidity and heat. Consider growing it as a cool-season annual, planting in autumn (March to April) for harvest through winter and spring. In Toowoomba and inland regions with cooler temperatures, year-round cultivation is more feasible.

Western Australia: Perth's Mediterranean climate suits tarragon well. Plant in autumn (March to April) for spring growth, then provide afternoon shade during the hot summer months (December to February). In cooler southern regions like Margaret River, tarragon thrives with minimal intervention.

South Australia: Adelaide and the Adelaide Hills are excellent for tarragon cultivation. The relatively cool climate and distinct seasons support robust growth. Plant in early spring or autumn.

Tasmania: Tasmania's cool climate is actually ideal for tarragon. The cooler summers prevent bolting and stress. Plant in spring and enjoy reliable, year-round growth in most locations.

Climate Zones

If you're unsure of your specific zone, refer to the Australian National Plant Collections or your local council's gardening guides. Generally, tarragon performs best in zones with:

• Cool to temperate conditions
• Well-defined seasons
• Moderate summer temperatures (below 26°C ideal)
• Low to moderate humidity in summer
• Some winter chill (helps dormancy and regrowth)

In tropical regions or areas with hot, humid summers, treat tarragon as a cool-season crop, similar to parsley or chives in winter gardens.

How to Obtain French Tarragon Plants

Since French tarragon cannot be grown from seed, Australian gardeners have two main options for obtaining plants:

Purchasing from Nurseries

Many Australian nurseries stock French tarragon, particularly in spring. Quality nurseries in capital cities and regional towns typically carry it. Avoid garden centres that label tarragon as "Russian" or simply "tarragon seeds" — these are inferior varieties. Look for labels clearly stating "French tarragon".

Purchasing from Garden Centres and Hardware Stores

Major retailers like Bunnings and Mitre 10 stock herbs seasonally. Visit in spring (September to October) when tarragon plants are most readily available. Staff can help you identify French tarragon and provide growing advice specific to your region.

Root Division from Established Plants

If you already have a healthy French tarragon plant, or can source one from a friend's garden, propagation through root division is straightforward and free. Divide plants in autumn (March to May) or early spring (September) when growth is active but not at peak vigour.

Planting French Tarragon: Location and Preparation

Choosing the Right Location

French tarragon thrives in:

• Full sun: At least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily. In hot climates (above 30°C regularly), afternoon shade is beneficial.
• Well-draining soil: Tarragon hates waterlogged conditions and will develop root rot in poorly draining soils. Raised beds or containers are ideal for problem soils.
• Sheltered position: Protect from strong winds, which can damage delicate foliage.
• Good air circulation: Reduces fungal diseases in humid regions.

Soil Preparation

Tarragon prefers slightly alkaline to neutral soil (pH 6.5-7.5). Before planting:

• Amend heavy clay soils with 5-8 cm of compost or aged manure to improve drainage
• Work in coarse sand or perlite if drainage is still poor
• Add a balanced organic fertiliser (5-5-5 NPK) at planting time
• Avoid fresh manure, which can encourage fungal issues

Planting Depth and Spacing

Plant French tarragon at the same depth it was growing in its nursery pot — the crown should sit just at soil level, not buried. Space plants 30-45 cm apart to allow for mature growth and air circulation. In containers, use pots at least 20 cm in diameter and 20 cm deep, filled with quality potting mix.

Watering and Fertilising

Watering Requirements

Tarragon prefers consistent but not excessive moisture. Water deeply when the top 2-3 cm of soil feels dry. During:

• Spring (September-November) and summer (December-February): Water regularly, especially in hot weather. In arid regions, daily watering may be necessary.
• Autumn (March-May) and winter (June-August): Reduce watering as growth slows. Allow soil to dry slightly between waterings.

Container plants dry out faster — check them daily during hot weather.

Fertilising

Tarragon is a light feeder and doesn't require heavy fertilisation. Apply:

• Balanced fertiliser (5-5-5) monthly during the growing season (spring and summer)
• Half-strength liquid fertiliser if growing in containers
• A light application of compost or well-aged manure in autumn

Avoid high-nitrogen fertilisers, which promote leaf growth at the expense of flavour.

Pruning and Maintenance

Regular Pinching and Pruning

To encourage bushier growth and prevent early bolting:

• Pinch off new growth tips regularly during spring and early summer
• Remove flower buds as they appear
• Cut back stems by one-third in mid-summer (January) to rejuvenate plants
• Never remove more than one-third of the plant at once

Winter Care

In temperate and cool regions, tarragon naturally dies back in winter. This is normal and healthy. Cut back dead foliage in late winter (August) as new growth emerges in spring. In tropical and subtropical regions where tarragon doesn't dormant, continue light pruning year-round to maintain shape and vigour.

Harvesting French Tarragon

When to Start Harvesting

Begin light harvesting once plants are established (after 6-8 weeks of growth). Avoid heavy harvesting in the first season to allow plants to establish strong root systems.

Harvesting Methods

For maximum flavour, harvest tarragon in the morning after dew dries but before the heat of the day. Pinch or cut stems just above leaf nodes, encouraging branching:

• Remove outer stems first, working towards the centre
• Harvest no more than one-third of the plant at a time
• Harvest regularly to promote bushiness and prevent bolting
• Peak flavour occurs just before flowering (which you're preventing by pinching)

Best Harvest Times by Season

Spring (September-November): Growth is vigorous; harvest regularly to maintain shape.

Summer (December-February): In cooler regions, harvest generously. In hot climates, reduce harvesting to prevent stress.

Autumn (March-May): Continue harvesting as growth slows.

Winter (June-August): In cooler regions, the plant is dormant — avoid harvesting. In warmer regions where growth continues, light harvesting is acceptable.

Preserving French Tarragon

Fresh tarragon is always best, but preservation extends its availability:

Freezing

Blanch sprigs briefly in boiling water for 30 seconds, plunge into iced water, pat dry, and freeze in airtight containers or ice-cube trays with water or oil. Frozen tarragon retains flavour for up to 6 months.

Drying

Tarragon dries well. Hang bundles in a warm, dark, well-ventilated space (20-25°C is ideal) for 2-3 weeks. Store dried leaves in airtight containers away from light. Dried tarragon keeps for up to 12 months.

Tarragon Vinegar

Place fresh sprigs in a bottle of white wine vinegar and let infuse for 2-3 weeks at room temperature. Strain and store in the fridge for up to 12 months. Use in dressings, marinades, and pickling.

Common Problems and Solutions

Root Rot

Problem: Yellowing leaves, wilting despite moist soil, soft stems at the base.

Cause: Waterlogging or poor drainage.

Solution: Improve drainage immediately. Repot into fresh, well-draining mix. Remove affected stems and reduce watering frequency. In garden beds, consider raising beds or amending soil with sand and compost.

Spider Mites (in hot, dry conditions)

Problem: Fine webbing on leaves, tiny yellow stippling, leaf yellowing.

Cause: Hot, dry air — particularly common in arid regions during summer.

Solution: Increase humidity by misting foliage early in the morning. Provide afternoon shade. Use organic miticide (neem oil) if infestation is severe. Remove heavily infested leaves.

Powdery Mildew (in humid regions)

Problem: White powdery coating on leaves, distorted growth.

Cause: Humid conditions, poor air circulation.

Solution: Improve air circulation by spacing plants wider and pruning lower foliage. Apply sulphur dust or neem oil spray. Remove severely affected leaves. Avoid overhead watering.

Bolting (Premature Flowering)

Problem: Plant suddenly produces flower buds, foliage becomes sparse and bitter.

Cause: Heat stress, irregular watering, or skipped pruning.

Solution: Pinch off flower buds immediately. Provide afternoon shade during hot months. Maintain consistent soil moisture. Cut back the plant by one-third to rejuvenate. Bolting is more common in hot, dry climates — adjust expectations and harvest before it occurs.

Weak Growth or Poor Flavour

Problem: Spindly growth, pale foliage, bland taste.

Cause: Insufficient light, over-fertilising (especially with nitrogen), or poor soil drainage.

Solution: Ensure at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight. Switch to balanced fertiliser at half-strength. Check soil drainage and amend if necessary. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilisers.

Frost Damage (in cool regions)

Problem: Blackened, wilted foliage after frost.

Cause: Unexpected late frost in spring or early frost in autumn.

Solution: In frost-prone areas, grow tarragon in containers so it can be moved under cover. Mulch around the base in late winter. Wait until late spring (October) to plant to avoid late frosts. The plant usually recovers after frost damage — prune damaged foliage and wait for new growth.

Propagation: Root Division

French tarragon is easily propagated through root division. This is the only method for this variety (since it doesn't set seed).

When to Divide

The best time is autumn (March to May) or early spring (September to October) when the plant is actively growing but not stressed by heat.

How to Divide

1. Dig up the entire plant carefully with a garden fork
2. Gently shake off excess soil to expose the root system
3. Rinse roots lightly with water to see the natural divisions
4. Use a sharp knife or spade to divide the plant into sections, ensuring each has 3-4 growth shoots and healthy roots (at least 5 cm of root)
5. Replant divisions immediately at the same depth as the original plant
6. Water well and keep soil consistently moist (but not waterlogged) for the first 2-3 weeks
7. Avoid fertilising for 4-6 weeks; let the plant re-establish first

Each division will become a full plant within 2-3 months under good growing conditions.

Container Growing

French tarragon grows well in containers, which offers advantages in challenging climates:

• Drainage control: Use pots with drainage holes and quality potting mix
• Mobility: Move containers to shade in summer or under cover in winter
• Climate flexibility: Subtropical gardeners can move plants to cooler spots during summer heat
• Size: Minimum 20 cm diameter, 20 cm deep; larger is better
• Watering: Check daily; containers dry faster than garden beds, especially in summer
• Fertilising: Use half-strength liquid fertiliser monthly during the growing season
• Repotting: Refresh potting mix or move to a slightly larger pot every spring

Storage and Use After Harvesting

Fresh Tarragon

Tarragon keeps for up to 2 weeks in the fridge stored in a sealed container lined with paper towels. Stand sprigs in a jar of water like a bouquet for slightly longer storage (up to 3 weeks).

Cooking with Fresh Tarragon

Add fresh tarragon to dishes near the end of cooking to preserve its delicate flavour. It's particularly prised in:

• Sauce béarnaise (for grilled meats)
• Creamy chicken dishes
• Fish preparations
• Egg dishes and omelettes
• Vinaigrettes and salad dressings

Conclusion

French tarragon is a rewarding herb to grow in Australia when you understand your climate zone and provide appropriate care. Whilst it requires attention to drainage, regular pruning, and protection from extreme heat in hot regions, the reward — genuine, delicate, liquorice-flavoured tarragon for your kitchen — makes it worthwhile. Start with a nursery-grown plant, choose a sunny, well-draining location, and harvest regularly for the best results. With the guidance in this article, you'll enjoy fresh French tarragon throughout the growing season.